These restaurants highlight cuisines from around the world – here’s just a sampling of their most impressive dishes
Photography by John Michael Simpson
Handmade pasta is the backbone of Mothers & Sons Trattoria. The tagliatelle al ragu is a mainstay of the restaurant’s menu, and chef Josh “Skinny” DeCarolis notes that its simplicity belies both its importance and the care that goes into making it. “I attended pasta school in Bologna, and that dish is one of only a few consumed almost daily by locals,” he explains. The noodles are hand rolled “almattarello,” meaning with a large wooden rolling pin, creating a distinctive texture for the slow-simmered ragu sauce to cling to. Almost everything for the dish is sourced locally, including the eggs for the pasta and the beef and pork for the sauce. “[It’s] simple, classic, not fussy and made from locally sourced and sustainably raised animals,” Josh says. “It’s kind of a microcosm of Italian culinary ethos.”
It’s hard to pick just one dish at Lime & Lemon Indian Grill & Bar, which is why there are two here that truly represent this popular restaurant’s cuisine. The butter chicken, a staple of Indian restaurants across the country, is a creamy tomato-based curry with chunks of roasted chicken. The Bombay lamb chops are an elevated take on classic tandoori cooking. Marinated in yogurt and Lime & Lemon’s special blend of spices, the chops are roasted at high heat in a clay oven. Pair either with an Indian mule, a South Asian twist on the popular vodka and ginger cocktail, for the perfect balance of spicy and sweet.
“The chicken shawarma sandwich is one of our most popular dishes,” says Mediterranean Grill & Grocery manager Kristi Page, and it also happens to be a favorite of chef and owner Marwan Qandeel. Shawarma is one of those street foods that has taken on a life of its own and can be found from the halal carts of New York City to takeout joints across Europe and Latin America. Here in the Bull City, Mediterranean Grill & Grocery marinates its chicken for hours in a tangy and spicy yogurt sauce before it’s grilled. The shawarma is placed in pita bread and topped with garlic sauce, pickles, tomatoes and onions. A side of one of the restaurant’s many salads and vegetable dishes (like fattoush salad, stuffed grape leaves or vegetable biryani) and a piece of baklava for dessert complete the picture.
One of the newest additions to Durham’s bustling Mexican food scene, Mezcalito has already made a name for itself with upscale takes on classic Mexican-American cuisine. The La Jefa carne asada fajitas are a prime example – they’ve taken the time-honored marinated and grilled steak dish and turned the volume way, way up with shell-on shrimp, corn on the cob, jalapenos, pico de gallo, guacamole and more. And wait till you see its cocktails – impressive doesn’t begin to cover it. The classic margarita receives a stunning glow-up, with many options to wet your whistle. There’s the tropical mangonada margarita, a play on the popular Mexican street food snack of mango with spicy chamoy topping. Or you could opt for childhood nostalgia and go for the Jolly Rancher margarita, which comes with a giant slice of watermelon. Pair either with the La Jefa for an unforgettable experience.
Boricua Soul owner Toriano Fredericks combines the best of Puerto Rican cuisine with the foodways of North Carolina. “Our food is Southern soul, Caribbean flair, Euro-African roots, and this [Boricua Soul] bowl represents us best,” he says. “It blends iconic celebration foods from both Puerto Rican and Southern tables.” Slow-roasted pernil – pork shoulder – tops arroz con gandules (Puerto Rican yellow rice with peas) and is served with macaroni and cheese, collard greens and tostones. It’s a Southern meat-and-three meets Puerto Rican barbecue bash and is consistently one of the American Tobacco Campus restaurant’s most popular dishes.
Namu is known for fusion dishes like its Korean barbecue tofu quesadilla, yet it’s difficult to find a more culturally significant Korean dish than bibimbap, which is why it’s been a go-to on the menu for years. “It is a dish rooted in tradition, so we wanted to make sure that our version was done well,” says Namu General Manager Mark Chandler. The marinated and grilled Korean barbecue beef is served on a bed of white rice alongside pickled cucumbers, shredded carrots and chilled bean sprouts. It’s then topped with a fried egg, though you can ask for it to be cooked most any way you like it. Pair the bowl with a pint from Namu’s extensive beer hall list, close your eyes, and you might just think you’ve been transported to Seoul. “[Bibimbap] showcases our roots and our history,” Mark says.
Pincho Loco Ice Cream serves a mashup of both American and Mexican frozen treats at its shop just off Ninth Street, where aromas of cinnamon and fresh fruit hit you as soon as you step inside its colorful door. Its mangonada is a version of one of Mexico’s most popular street foods, with sweet chunks of ripe mango drizzled with a spicy chamoy topping, while the horchata milkshake marries an iconic Mexican drink, horchata (which is made with rice soaked in water and flavored with cinnamon and vanilla), with an equally iconic American drink – the milkshake. – by Matthew Lardie
The word “chirashi” in Japanese translates to “scattered,” a perfect name for a traditional dish that invites creativity and playfulness. M Sushi’s take starts with a bed of sushi rice and a citrusy zing of ponzu sauce. Layers of thinly sliced sashimi are then added to the bowl, followed by house-pickled vegetables and crispy garlic. A sprinkle of microgreens and pea shoots infuse a fresh, delicate element to the dish, and ikura, or salmon roe, adds a burst of flavor and color as the finishing touch. We recommend pairing with miso soup. – by Morgan Cartier Weston
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